If you are looking for somewhere to stay in Liguria, but would rather discover a quieter and more authentic side of the Italian Riviera, Western Liguria is a wonderful place to start.
Here, the landscape changes quickly: from the Mediterranean coast and small beaches, you can drive inland through olive groves and vineyards and reach ancient stone villages surrounded by hills. France is just across the border, while the mountains of the Ligurian Alps begin almost behind you.
It is a part of Liguria that is easy to overlook — and that is precisely what makes it so special.
Where is Western Liguria?
Western Liguria stretches from the French border towards Sanremo and the Ligurian Alps. At its heart is Ventimiglia, the last Italian town before France and a natural starting point for exploring both the coast and the inland valleys.
From Ventimiglia, you can reach Menton in France in a few minutes, while places such as Dolceacqua, Apricale, Pigna and Airole take you into a very different Liguria: medieval villages, stone houses, olive trees, vineyards and narrow mountain roads.
Unlike some of the more famous parts of the Italian Riviera, this is a region where everyday life is still very much part of the landscape.
Where to stay near Ventimiglia
If you want to combine the sea with nature, villages, food and day trips to the French Riviera, staying around Ventimiglia can be an excellent choice.
You don’t necessarily have to stay directly on the coast.
In fact, one of the most rewarding ways to experience this area is to stay a few kilometres inland, in one of the small historic villages overlooking the valleys.
This gives you easy access to the sea while allowing you to experience a slower, quieter side of Liguria in the evening.
Casa del Grillo is in Verrandi, a tiny traditional Ligurian village in the hills above Ventimiglia.
There are no shops or restaurants in the village, and that is part of its charm. You wake up to birds and the sound of the countryside rather than traffic, and yet the Mediterranean coast is only a short drive away.
Casa del Grillo: a stone house in a small Ligurian village
Casa del Grillo is a family holiday home in Verrandi, a small stone village surrounded by olive trees and vineyards.
It is not a seaside resort and it is not a panoramic hotel. It is an old Ligurian village house, lived in and loved by generations of the same family.
The house is spread over three floors, with a living room and kitchen, bedrooms and an attic overlooking the surrounding hills and rooftops of the village.
It is particularly suited to families and friends who want a place of their own from which to explore the area.
The sea is close enough for a morning swim, while the inland valleys and villages are there for afternoons spent walking, eating, tasting wine or simply getting lost along the small roads.
Why stay inland rather than on the coast?
There is something special about staying just behind the coast.
During the day, you can go to the beach, explore Menton or visit the colourful markets of Ventimiglia.
Then you drive back into the hills, leave the traffic behind and return to a tiny village where the pace of life changes completely.
This is one of the reasons we love Western Liguria.
You can have both.
The Mediterranean and the mountains.
Italy and France.
A day at the beach and an evening in a stone village.
A restaurant in town and a simple dinner on a terrace.
You don’t have to choose.
The villages worth discovering
One of the best things about staying in Western Liguria is having time to explore the small villages inland.
Dolceacqua
Perhaps the best known of the inland villages, Dolceacqua is famous for its medieval castle, stone bridge and narrow streets.
It is also surrounded by vineyards and is a wonderful place to combine a village visit with a local wine experience.
Apricale
Perched on a hill above the Nervia valley, Apricale is one of those places where it is worth simply wandering without a plan.
Stone houses, small squares, steep alleys and views across the valley make it particularly atmospheric towards the end of the day.
Pigna
Further inland, Pigna has a distinctly mountain character, with narrow lanes, old stone buildings and a beautiful valley setting.
It is also a good starting point for exploring the surrounding countryside.
Airole
Airole is a tiny village surrounded by mountains and olive groves, not far from the French border.
The landscape around it is particularly beautiful for walking and discovering the rural side of the region.
What to do around Ventimiglia
Western Liguria is not really a place for ticking attractions off a list.
It is better experienced slowly.
You can spend a morning swimming in the Mediterranean, have lunch in a traditional trattoria, visit a medieval village in the afternoon and finish the day with a glass of local wine.
There are also plenty of opportunities for walking and hiking directly from the inland villages.
And because the French border is so close, you can easily combine Italy with a day in Menton, the Côte d’Azur or even further along the French coast.
At Casa del Grillo, we also help our guests discover experiences that are difficult to find through a standard tourist itinerary — from wine tasting with local producers to cooking, hiking and other small experiences with people who actually live and work in the area.
Liguria beyond the Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre are beautiful, but they are not the only way to experience Liguria.
If what you are looking for is a quieter holiday, fewer crowds and a more local atmosphere, Western Liguria offers something quite different.
Here, villages are still small. Roads become narrow as you head into the hills. Olive groves and vineyards are part of everyday life, and you can easily find yourself walking along a path without seeing another person for quite some time.
It feels less like visiting a destination and more like discovering a place.
A good base for Italy and the French Riviera
Another reason to choose this part of Liguria is its position.
From around Ventimiglia, you can explore both sides of the border.
Spend one day in Italy discovering Dolceacqua and the inland valleys, and the next morning have breakfast in Menton.
You can visit the Hanbury Gardens, explore the old town of Ventimiglia, swim at one of the beaches along the coast, or drive inland towards the Ligurian Alps.
For travellers who enjoy combining different experiences rather than staying in one place, this makes Western Liguria a particularly interesting base.
When is the best time to visit?
Spring and autumn are especially beautiful here.
The temperatures are generally pleasant, the landscape is green and the villages are quieter than during the height of summer.
September is one of our favourite months: the sea is still warm, the light becomes softer, the days are often sunny and the countryside starts to take on its autumn colours.
It is a wonderful time for hiking, exploring villages, eating outside and simply enjoying the slower rhythm of the region.
Summer is, of course, perfect if the sea is your priority. But even then, staying inland means that you can escape the busiest parts of the coast at the end of the day.
Is a car necessary?
For Casa del Grillo, we strongly recommend having a car.
The house is in a very small hilltop village with no shops or restaurants, so having your own transport makes exploring the area much easier.
It also gives you the freedom to combine the coast, the villages and France without having to plan your days around public transport.
If you prefer not to drive, transfers and drivers can sometimes be arranged, although this is less flexible and generally more expensive.
Why we love this corner of Liguria
Perhaps the best reason to come here is that Western Liguria still feels a little undiscovered.
It is not perfect in the polished, postcard sense.
Some roads are narrow. Villages are quiet. Things happen at their own pace.
But there is something very genuine about it.
You can hear the birds in the morning, walk among olive trees, stop for an espresso in a tiny village, buy something local at the market, swim in the sea and cross the border into France — all in the same day.
This is the Liguria we love.
Not just a place to stay, but a place to slow down and discover.
Staying at Casa del Grillo
If you are looking for a base from which to explore this side of Liguria, Casa del Grillo is a traditional stone house in Verrandi, a small village just above Ventimiglia.
It is a good fit for travellers who want a more authentic experience of the Italian Riviera: nature, villages, sea, food, wine and the freedom to explore at their own pace.
We are always happy to share our favourite places, walks, beaches, villages and local experiences with our guests.
Because the best part of Western Liguria is often not the place you find on a map.
It is the place someone who knows the area well tells you about.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the best area to stay near Ventimiglia?
If you want easy access to the sea but also enjoy nature, villages and a quieter atmosphere, consider staying just inland from Ventimiglia. The small villages in the surrounding hills offer a very different experience from staying directly on the coast.
Where is Casa del Grillo?
Casa del Grillo is in Verrandi, a small traditional Ligurian village in the hills above Ventimiglia, in Western Liguria. The Mediterranean coast and the French border are only a short drive away.
How far is Casa del Grillo from the sea?
Casa del Grillo is around 7 km from Ventimiglia and the Mediterranean coast. A car is strongly recommended, both for reaching the house and for exploring the surrounding area.
Can you visit the French Riviera from Casa del Grillo?
Yes. One of the advantages of staying near Ventimiglia is the proximity to France. Menton is just across the border, making it easy to combine a stay in Liguria with days exploring the French Riviera.
What are the best villages to visit near Ventimiglia?
Some of the most interesting villages to explore include Dolceacqua, Apricale, Pigna and Airole. Each has its own character, landscape and history, and they are particularly enjoyable when explored slowly rather than as part of a rushed itinerary.
Is Western Liguria a good alternative to the Cinque Terre?
If you are looking for fewer crowds and a more local experience, Western Liguria offers a very different side of Liguria. The landscape combines the Mediterranean coast with hills, olive groves, vineyards and small historic villages.
What can you do in Western Liguria?
You can combine beach days with hiking, village visits, local food and wine experiences, visits to gardens and historic sites, and day trips across the French border. The area is particularly suited to travellers who enjoy discovering places at a slower pace.
Is a car necessary when staying at Casa del Grillo?
We strongly recommend having a car. Verrandi is a very small village with no shops or restaurants, and a car makes it much easier to reach the house and explore the coast, inland villages and nearby France.
When is the best time to visit Western Liguria?
Spring and autumn are particularly pleasant for exploring the area, hiking and visiting villages. September is one of our favourite times of year, with warm sea temperatures, beautiful light and generally quieter surroundings.
Why choose Casa del Grillo?
Casa del Grillo is for travellers looking for something different from a typical seaside holiday: an old stone house in a tiny Ligurian village, surrounded by nature and close to both the Mediterranean and the French Riviera, with local experiences and places to discover just beyond the doorstep.